1963 Mercury Comet GASSER A/FXTHUNDERBOLT INSPIRED 351C/C4/9" "THE WAYBACK"

Mercury Comet 1963 Description

1963 Mercury Comet 2 Door Hardtop S-22 model Gasser

Ford Thunderbolt Inspired Comet A/FX cars

-------------------Intro---------

I built 90% of this car on my own...it is homebuilt. Please consider this as you check out the listing... I have owned this car for maybe 12-13 years but have been building it for only the past 3-4 years. I have decided to see what offers I get... I finally made up mind on what car I'd like to settle down with as my last build and I need to Sell the others to buy "the one." I really hate to part with it (even though it still needs a few finishing touches) it is the most reliable classic car I've ever had...and the closest I've come to finishing a car. I can always count on it to start, drive to a car show or cruise and be confident I'm going to get a lot of thumbs up and not overheat. Clear TX title in my name. This car was built with a ton of inspiration and heart for the Ford thunderbolt and Ford A/FX cars of the 60's drag racing scene...(oh...and I have a thing for Gassers). I named the car the "WAYBACK" based from a scene in the cartoon movie Peabody and Sherman.

------------------Engine---------------------------------------------------

351C, 4V Heads built with screw in studs and guideplates, Custom built Fender well Headers, 2 ½” exhaust, can be uncapped, or run through Flowmaster super 10’s, exhaust dumps down just before rear end. Moroso tall valve covers, 750 Holley with 850 proform bowls, Edelbrock Torker intake, HEI distributor with ACCEL 8mm wires, Autolite plugs. Comp Cam Magnum roller rockers, 3/8 comp cam pushrods, comp cam dual springs, Comp cam 284B-8 Solid lifter cam, 284/294 Duration, 564/589 lift, 3200-6200 rpm range, comp cam solid lifters, and timing chain. Probably 1000 miles at most on motor and transmission build. HV oil pump, milodon aluminum water pump, probe pistons, 30 over, 10.1 compression, mechanical carter fuel pump, milidon extra capacity oil pan. New summit one wire alternator.

----------------------Front Suspension____________________

Speedway Front straight axle 46” and speedway leaf springs hangers and hardware, speedway steering linkage and arms kingpin kit, 49-54 Chevy drum brakes, steel braided brake lines, Stock replacement single bowl master cylinder (I know…needs a dual master upgrade and disc brakes…Around town driving…stops fine…but if you get on it…pray!)…Shock towers have been taken out and are no longer present…straight axle so little bit of a rough ride…good straight line car…not for hard turns. Stock steering column and cross steering set up. New speedway short shocks, and brackets welded. Front wheels are 15x4 star wheels and are chevy bolt pattern. Tires are new Firestone 145 F560’s.

------------------Transmission and Rear Axle--------------------

Built C4/C5, Heavy duty H Servo, shift kit, B&M Deep oil pan, TCI Street Fighter 4000 Stall Converter, 9” narrowed with Crites relocation leaf spring kit to accept bigger rim and tire, Moser 35 spline axles, Detroit locker, 4:33 gears, brand new pair of leaf springs, old school Lakewood traction slapper bars, New drum brakes, Rear wheels are 15x8 Centerlines with 5.5 backspacing, one rim is excellent, one rim has a little dent that touches inner diameter of wheel (cosmetic, still holds air just fine). Summit drag shocks out back with speedway heavy duty leaf spring plates. Rear tires are 255/60/15 M/T Drag radials.

-----------------Body and Interior-----------------------------------

Global west subframe connectors installed, Aftermarket Killduf Shifter (lenco/lightning rod style/copy)…it’s fun…Sunpro tach with shift light, (too big, hits glass…points downward, held by screw from vent…I couldn’t make a hole through dash)…Speedway low back poly bucket seats and slider bracket mounts and seat covers, rear seat upholstered, door panels cut from panel board, no door armrests (I have the door handles, not installed, All glass is good, windshield and rear glass is brand new with new seals, No windshield exterior or interior trim, or rear window trim, I do however have all exterior side molding/trim…all of it not installed. Wipers not installed, no sunvisors, no headliner, no carpet, no kick panels, new battery relocated to trunk, body is pretty darn near rust free…very solid car…areas of concern would be both the front floor boards close to the toe…kinda pitted in that area….but no rust through…I have an 8 point roll bar that has been measured, cut and fitted, but not yet welded…will go with the car. Rear inner fender wells in trunk were cut a little because inside of tires were rubbing (needs to be welded/addressed). Inner part of rear tires have damage from rubbing and will need to be replaced before and serious driving is done. Tank is new 16 gallon capacity. Rear fender needs either rechrome or sandblast and paint. White paintjob is recent, needs to be touched up where trim covered around windshield…there are quite a few spots where the filler shows up through the paint…the biggest and most noticeable spots are on the trunk lid and on the hood around the hood scoop (shows up as a green tint)....this will need to be addressed. Small fortune was spent in vinyl decals. Brand new 15" Grant Gold metalflake steering wheel and installation kit.

------------------Driver/but needs a few finishing touches-------------------

Solid driver, starts up every time, very healthy and strong motor…haven’t taken it to drags yet so I can’t give you any real numbers. My guess is maybe 12’s and maybe a little over 400 horse based on similar engine builds and racing cars I've had in the past…its got guts, it screams, doesn’t take much to smoke the tires…the subframe connectors really make the chassis stiff...you can feel the torque make the back end shift to one side when you romp on the gas...it's very light...as a matter of fact...when I first got it running...I took it for a short ride through the neighbor hood (got on it here and there)... and when I came back I noticed that the front of the leafsprings were bent upwards on both sides from the torque...so that's why I had to buy new ones....never experienced that before. This is a home built car, I did everything on the car except for paint and exhaust. Please do not expect a professional finish to this car…although it turns heads everywhere it is by no means a show car and is not finished. It needs a good wiring clean up as all the ignition wires are on the floor and run by a universal ignition switch. (I have a correct/new ignition switch installed in the dash/just not hooked up) If the unfinished bare floor bothers you…then needs carpet/rubber or speckled paint, Hood pins on hood and trunk lid are unfinished and still need to be adjusted and installed. Also …no headliner…no turn signals, do have a new turn signal universal box on column not yet wired…headlights work…no high beams, running brake lights work…but only one brake light gets bright when pressing brake pedal…needs looking into. New tail light lenses and bulbs. Needs screwdriver to open trunk...no keys for door or trunk locks...have to open trunk to put gas... sunpro triple gauges work (oil, temp, amps)...engine runs cool at 180 in El Paso 100 degree heat...aftermarket Equus fuel gauge works...speedo works but reads wrong...no other gauges on original panel work.

I will help in any (reasonable) way I can for shipping/transportation purposes on my end...but all transportation transactions are the buyer's responsibility. Deposit needs to be made within 24 hours and full payment within 3 days. The Comet goes absolutely NOWHERE until all funds are clear. I can hold the car for a reasonable 2 weeks.

Text me (not email) so I can text you back a video of the motor running.

915-731-2492

Thank you.